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Home > Water University > Water Filter Videos > Reverse Osmosis System Installation Part 2

Reverse Osmosis System Installation Part 2




Welcome to the Reverse Osmosis System Installation Part 2 Video Page. The PuROtwist 4000 RO System produces healthier, better-tasting drinking & cooking water by reducing a variety of contaminants including barium, cadmium, chromium III & VI, copper, fluoride, lead, mercury, nitrate, nitrite, radium, selenium, and TDS (total dissolved solids). Less expensive per glass than bottled water, the PuROtwist 4000 conforms to ANSI/NSF Standard 58 for performance.

Reverse Osmosis System Installation Part 2 Video Transcript

I want to explain something that we're doing differently from the instructions. We're not using this air gap faucet. Why? The homeowner already had a regular non-air gap faucet installed, so we're not sending the drain line from the system to the faucet and back down to the drain, in the same way that you do with an air gap. You can see here on this air gap the water line, the drain line, enters this quarter inch small barb and then exits this three-eighths inch barb. So it goes from being a ¼ inch line in, to a 3/8 inch line out, which then goes to the drain saddle as a 3/8 inch line. So we need to go directly to the drain, but the drain line exits the system as a 1/4 inch water line. So we use this coupler to go from 1/4 inch to 3/8 to adapt to the appropriate size for the drain saddle because we're not using the air gap. You don't always have to use the air gap in every situation, and we're not. So now I want to attach the ball valve to the top of the tank. So for starters I want to put a little piece of Teflon tape on these threads, just a tiny little piece, wrap these threads. It's really easy to do. And Teflon tape is important, it's just going to ensure that we don't have any leaks. And then, install the ball valve. And we don't need to crank this thing down until there's no threads showing, we want to actually have a few threads showing, and that's good. And then this ball valve has, as you can see here, a nice quick connect fitting on it, so it's going to make connecting the water lines very easy. OK. So now we're going to start attaching the water lines to the various locations. We'll start with the water lines being attached to things that are not on the system. So this water line is the drain line. It's connecting to a compression fitting on the end of the drain saddle. Every compression fitting needs an insert, so I've got this little brass insert that goes in the end of my water line. And then I'm going to remove the compression nut, which goes over the water line. And then it's water line in, and tighten that compression fitting down, and then in a moment here I'll take a wrench and I'll tighten it the rest of the way down. Now I'm going to put the cold water supply line into the saddle valve, OK? The saddle valve has this outlet that is a compression fitting, but we're using plastic water lines so we need to use a plastic ferrule instead of a brass ferrule. Don't use a brass ferrule on a plastic water line. The insert doesn't matter: it can be either brass or plastic, in this case I've got brass. So I've got the insert, that keeps the water line from crushing, then I have the plastic ferrule, and then I have the compression nut, and I'm going to attach all of that to the saddle valve. Tighten it down. And then I've got my wrench, and we'll take it down the rest of the way. And there we go, we've supplied cold water to the system. OK. So, so far we have already had a faucet installed for us, but if you didn't have that you'd have installed a faucet. Then you would have installed your cold water supply using the saddle valve, and the drain saddle on the drain pipe, and then mounted the manifold, the system itself, to the side of the cabinet. So four things installed, and now we have water lines coming from all of those appropriate things. So we've got the white water line, that comes from the faucet. We have the blue line, that's going to attach to the system and go to the tank. We have this red line, that's drain water, that's going from the system to the drain saddle. And we have this black line, that's attached to the cold water saddle valve and that's going to feed the system with cold water. And we're going to attach each of those to their appropriate location right now. And these little plugs just pop out. So that one is from the cold water supply. And you just push those...Quick connect fittings are a beautiful thing. You just push the water line in and it just kind of snaps or pops into place. OK. Then, pull this plug out, and that is going directly to the faucet. This white line is attached to the faucet on the other end. Pop that in place. This blue line, pull the plug out in back here... I'm having a hard time getting it. I have to remove this membrane in order to do it. There it is. Pull that out, and there we go. Pop it into place. And the drain line, this membrane, you can see there is a quick connect fitting on the bottom of this membrane--the drain line comes out of this membrane and goes to the drain. We won't attach that until after we have the membrane installed in the manifold. OK, we're about to install the cartridges, which is super easy. I just wanted to show you that the cartridges come with this yellow dust cap, and that just pops out. And chuck it, we don't need it. OK? The best way to do this is install them in order starting at stage number one, the pre-filter. One of these is a sediment filter, the Q5605. And it's so easy, anybody could do it. You literally just righty-tighty, screw it in place and that's it. Stage number two, carbon filter. Again, very quickly and very easily tighten it into place. Stage three is the membrane, that's the one with the drain line at the bottom, that we'll attach in a minute. Stick it into the valve head, twist it into place, and then finally the last carbon filter. Stage two and stage four are both the exact same carbon filter, the Q5633. Again, into the valve head, and screw it into place. And that's it. Now our membrane has that drain line that we still haven't attached, and we're going to stab that into that quick connect fitting right now. And there we go, drain line in. Now this drain line is really too long, and when I get done filming this in three seconds I'm going to cut this drain line and make it much shorter. It's a bad idea to have your drain line be very long because it can cause problems with water getting to the drain. So I'm going to shorten this up. But you get the idea. All right. As you can see we've installed the reservoir tank under the sink next to the system, and we have this good water line coming from the system that needs to attach to the ball valve on this tank. And that has a quick connect fitting so it's a very easy connection, literally just pop it into place. And that's it. Then the valve has to be parallel with the water line in the on position. If it's turned to the perpendicular it's off, and water won't be able to get in or out of the tank. We want to make sure it's in the on position. And that's it. We've installed the entire system. OK, a couple of things you should know now that you have the system installed. One, the system is going to make water much slower at the beginning than it will eventually later. That's because the membrane is dry and it needs to fully permeate with water. It will be much faster down the road, it will only take about an hour or two to fill the tank, depending on your incoming water pressure. Concerning cartridge changes: the stage one and stage two cartridges, you're going to change those approximately every six months; the membrane gets changes approximately every two years. And if you own a TDS meter you can measure your total dissolved solids and verify the percentage of total dissolved solids rejection, and change the membrane based on those numbers, and be kind of scientific about it. And then the stage four polishing filter, that only needs to be changed once annually. So the system is working now, it's filling the tank. And I'm not going to use the first three tankfuls of water because the membrane has a food grade preservative in it that we're going to purge out. So let the system do it's thing, then go to the faucet, turn the faucet on and run it bone dry. Then turn the faucet off, walk away, come back a few hours later and do the same thing again. What you're doing is you're dumping the first three tankfuls of water down the drain. You don't want to drink the food grade preservative. It's food grade so it's not going to kill anybody, but who wants to drink that stuff? So purge that out, and then you're going to have awesome water. I'm your host Aquaman, and thanks for watching Water Wisdom.

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