We review the basics of a whole house water filter system including details about filter housings, water filter cartridges, and general maintenance. This is a must see for anyone preparing to install a whole house water filter system, or those planning to purchase a water filter. Details include proper water filter cartridge selection, proper lubricant for O-ring lubrication, and correct use of the spanner wrench.

Whole House Water Filtration Overview Video Transcript

Welcome to Water Wisdom sponsored by WaterFilters.NET. I’m your host Aquaman and in this session we’re going to look at knowing how to change a carbon block and knowing when it needs to be changed. What we see back here is a complete filtration system; this is the way your filter system should be installed when you do it in your house. We have all the appropriate components. We have shut-off valves before and after the system and we also have pressure gauges before and after each of the filter housings. You can see over here on the sediment filter and here on the carbon block, pre and post pressure gauges. Every filter cartridge has an anticipated and normal pressure drop when it’s brand new. This cartridge that we’re putting in the system today is an EP-20BB. It has an expected pressure drop of about 5 ½ psi at a flow rate of 5 gallons per minute. When that pressure drop increases, that’s an indication that the cartridge is clogging with particulate matter or that the media is becoming exhausted and water can’t pass through as easily so the pressure drop increases. In this system, just a few minutes ago, we ran the faucet over here at 4 gallons a minute and we saw a pressure drop difference between the pre and the post gauge of about 6 to 8 psi, that’s far above what we would expect for the cartridge that’s in here, so we’re going to change it. Here is the process; we’ve shut off the water valves before and after, and we’ve released the pressure from the system by opening up the tap that we have over here. You would do this at your kitchen tap or your bathroom, somewhere in the house you’ve got to release the water. Then, each of these housings that we sell has a red pressure release valve on the top. I’ve got my handy, dandy bucket, which you’re going to need, and I’ll be glad I have in a minute. I’m going to release the pressure for a few seconds, a little dribble of water, looks like we’re good to go. Now, I’m going to use my spanner wrench, this is an SW-4, goes with these 20-BB housings and I am going to remove this sump, righty tighty lefty loosey, just like every screw you’ve ever used in your life. Slide the filter wrench up on and there it is, it’s loose enough now that I don’t need the wrench anymore and I’m going to loosen the filter housing, this is the sump that I am removing from the cap. In a few turns it’s going to fall out into my hands and get me wet, don’t wear your good clothes when doing this project, here it comes, a little more water, and there it is. Dump the water into my bucket and there we go. There is our filter sump and here is our used and well used carbon block that we’re replacing, set this over here in the sink for it to drain. There is couple of other things we want to do before we put the new filter in; it’s not a bad idea to start by inspecting inside and checking to make sure and see if any debris has been left behind, in our case, look what I found, an old o-ring that fell off of the old cartridge, don’t want that in there or the new filter won’t fit properly. Next, check the o-ring, take the time to do this right, you’ll regret if you don’t, if you put it back together and your o-ring is damaged, you will spring a leak and that is no fun for anyone. Check it for flat spots, abrasions, dings, nicks, looks pretty good. Now I am going to re-lubricate the o-ring with food grade silicone grease, available at WaterFilters.NET, do not use any other lubricant that is a bad story, only food grade silicone grease. I am going to take a towel and clean out the groove that the o-ring seats into, then I am going to put some of this lubricant in a number of places, starting with this groove that this o-ring will seat into on this sump. Be generous with the lubricant, you will be glad that you did, it is going to make everything go together easier and it will protect the longevity and effectiveness of the o-ring. Now, put some all over the o-ring, it’s kind of a greasy job, nicely lubed; now I am going to seat the o-ring into the groove. Now that we have the o-ring seated I am going to take one more glob of silicone grease and lubricate the threads inside on the cap, this is also very important, be generous with the food grade silicone grease, you’ll be glad that you did, a quick smear of grease everywhere, food grade silicone grease, remember that. Alright we’re good to go, right here we have our EP-20BB 5 micron carbon block available at WaterFilters.NET and I am going to slide this down into the housing, make sure you press it in and wiggle it a little so it seats down, there is a small post at the bottom of the sump, make sure it is sitting down on their properly, now were going to reattach the sump to the cap. Righty tighty and there it goes, hand tight only, you’ll notice I am not using the spanner wrench because if I use that I could crush the o-ring which would later lead to leaks and that would be bad, nice and firm, hand tight, there we go and it’s in. Let’s fire it up and check for leaks, open up the valve on the outlet side and previously you can find this other video on our website, we changed the sediment filter in this housing and you can view that, it is the same process just a different type of cartridge, you may find the results from our disgusting sediment cartridge interesting. We have our sediment cartridge, our carbon cartridge and we’re ready to fire up the pressure. Nice and easy, you don’t want to slam it with all that pressure; it will take a second for the sumps to fill with water, so far so good. It sounds like the first sump is filled, no sign of any leaks, sounds like the second sump is almost full, and no leaks there either. Then run the system to let the air out, there is probably a lot of air built up, don’t be surprised if you get some sputtering and spurting. It is perfectly normal to find small air bubbles in the water and also with the carbon filter, carbon fines; it’s like little tiny black pieces of the carbon that are loose, it’s perfectly normal and harmless to ingest even though nobody probably wants to, it’s harmless and that will rinse out after you flush the system. It is a good idea to crank the water on and walk away for 10 minutes, let it purge out those carbon fines and purge out any air bubbles, then you’re good to go. My name is Aquaman and this is Water Wisdom sponsored by WaterFilters.NET. Thanks.

See detailed specifications and purchase the Pentek 20-BB here.