Changing a Whole House Water Filter Video Transcript

Welcome to Water Wisdom sponsored by WaterFilters.NET. I'm your host Aquaman, and in this section, we're going to look at knowing how to change a carbon block and knowing when it needs to be changed. What we see back here is a complete filtration system, and this is the way your filter system should be installed when you do it in your house. We've got all the appropriate components. We have shut off valves before and after the system, and we also have pressure gauges before and after each of the filter housings. You can see over here on the sediment filter and here on the carbon block, pre and post pressure gauges. Every filter cartridge has an anticipated and normal pressure drop when it's brand new. This cartridge that we're putting in the system today is an EP-20BB. It's got an expected pressure drop of about 5 and a half PSI at a flow rate of 5 gallons per minute. When that pressure drop increases, that is an indication that the cartridge is clogging with particulate matter, or that the media is becoming exhausted and water can’t pass through as easily, so the pressure drop increases. In this system, just a few minute ago, we ran the faucet at 4 gallons a minute, and we saw a pressure drop difference between the pre and the post gauge of about 6 to 8 PSI. That is far above what we would expect for the cartridge that is in here and so we're going to change it. Here's the process: We shut off the water valves before and after, and we've relived the pressure from the system by opening up the tap that we have over here. You would do this at your kitchen tap, or your bathroom tap. Somewhere in the house, you’ve gotta release the water. Then, each of these housings, that we sell, has a red pressure release valve on the top. I got my handy-dandy bucket, which you're going to need, and I'll be glad I have in a minute. I'm going to release the pressure for a few seconds. We've got a little drip of water and it looks like we're good to go.

Now, I'm going to use my spanner wrench (this is an SW-4, it goes with these 20BB housings), and I'm going to remove this sump. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey, just like every screw you've ever used in your life. Slide the filter wrench up on and there it is, it's loose enough now that I don't need the wrench anymore, and I’m gonna loosen the filter housing. This is the sump that I’m removing from the cap. In a few turns, it's going to fall out into my hands and get me wet. Don't wear your good clothes when you’re doing this project. Here it comes, a little more water, and there it is. Dump my water into my bucket, and there we go. There's our filter sump, and here's our used and well used carbon block that we're replacing. Set this over here in the sink for it to drain.

Now there’s a couple things we need to do before we put the new filter in. It's not a bad idea to start by inspecting inside and checking to make sure, just to see if any debris has been left behind. In our case, ah! Look what I've found, an old O-ring that fell off of the old cartridge; don't want that in there or the new filter will not fit properly. So we get that out of there. Otherwise, we look like we're good. Now next, we gotta check the O-ring. Take the time to do this right, you’ll regret it if you don't. If you put it back together and your O-ring is damaged, you're going to spring a leak, and that’s no fun for anybody. So, check it for flat spots, abrasions, dings, and nicks; looks pretty good. Now, I'm going to re-lubricate the O-ring with food-grade silicone grease, available at WaterFIlters.Net. Don't use any other lubricant; that's a bad story. Only use food-grade silicone grease! I'm going to take a towel and clean out the groove that the O-ring seats into. And then I'm going to put some of this lubricant in a number of places, starting with this groove that this O-ring will seat into on this sump. Be generous with the lubricant, you’ll be glad that you did. It's going to make everything go together easier and it's going to protect the longevity and effectiveness of your O-ring. Now, again, I'm going to get some all over the O-ring. It's kind of a greasy job; alright, nicely lubed. Now I'm going to seat the O-ring into the groove. Now that we have the O-ring seated, I'm going to take one more glob of silicone grease and I'm going to lubricate the threads inside on the cap. This is also very important. Be generous with the food-grade, silicone grease, you will be glad that you did. Just a quick smear of grease everywhere; food-grade, silicone grease, remember that!

Alright, we're good to go! Right here we have our EP-20BB 5 Micron Carbon Block, available at WaterFIlters.NET. I'm going to slide this down into the housing, and just make sure that you press it in and wiggle it a little so that it seats down, there’s a small post at the bottom of the sump, just want to make sure it’s sitting down there properly. And now, we're going to reattach the sump to the cap. Righty tighty; there it goes. Hand tight only! You’ll notice I'm not using the spanner wrench, because if I use that, I could crush the O-ring, which could later lead to leaks, and that would be bad. Nice, firm, hand-tight; there we go and it's in! So, let's fire it up and check for leaks. I'm going to open up the valve on the outlet side. Previously, you can find this other video on our web site, we changed the sediment filter in this housing and you can view that. It’s the same process, it’s just a different type of cartridge, and you may find the results from our disgusting sediment cartridge interesting anyway. So, we’ve got our sediment cartridge, our carbon cartridge, and we're ready to fire up the pressure. Here we go! Nice and easy, I don't want to slam it with all that pressure. It will take a second for the sumps to fill with water. So far, so good; sounds like the first sump is filled, no sign of any leaks. Sounds like the second sump is almost full, and no leaks there either. And then, we will run the system to let the air out. There’s probably a lot of air built up. Don't be surprised if you get some sputtering and spurting. Also, it's perfectly normal to find small air bubbles in the water and also with the carbon filter, carbon fines (little black pieces of the carbon that are loose). It's perfectly normal, and it's harmless to ingest, even though nobody probably wants to. It’s harmless, and that will rinse out after you flush the system. It's a good idea just to crank the water on. Just walk away for about 10 minutes. Let it purge out those carbon fines and purge out any air bubbles, and then you're good to go. My name is Aqua Man, and this is Water Wisdom, sponsored by WaterFilters.NET. Thanks!

See detailed specifications and purchase the EP-20BB here.