GE GXULQ Under Sink Filter System Installation Video Transcript

Hey everyone, Tony the Filter Doctor here, and welcome to our installation series. Today we’ll be installing the GE GXULQ. This is an under sink filter system that does not require a separate dedicated drinking water faucet. This system is capable of producing an appropriate volume of water to feed your regular kitchen faucet, and we’re going to install it for you right here today. It’s super easy. Watch this. When you open the package, you’ll find a hardware packet with a variety of fittings, the filter, the valve head and bracket assembly, and some water line, as well as a timer to attach to your refrigerator and, of course, a set of instructions.

The first thing we need to do is turn off the water supply of the cold water line. Since we’re attaching this to the cold water line, I’m turning this valve clockwise, all the way, snuggly and now the water is off. Now that the water is turned off, I need to remove this 3/8 inch braided line. It’s attached both here and up underneath the sink, connected directly to the faucet. Using a wrench or an appropriately sized plier, loosen this nut from the valve. Once it’s loose, you should be able to remove it by hand. Next, using a plier or an appropriately sized wrench, remove the nut from the attachment point at the faucet. Once it’s loose, you should be able to remove it the rest of the way by hand. Now locate the faucet adaptor piece that looks like this. Now we need to determine the best location to mount the filter system itself. You may want to avoid mounting it on the back wall of your cabinet for at least two reasons. One is, often times the back piece of a cabinet is thin and flimsy and may not be able to take the kind of screws necessary to support the weight of the system itself.

Also, you have to dig your way all the way to the back of the cabinet every time you want to change cartridges. Mounting it on the side however, will give you a couple of advantages. First, the side wall of a cabinet is typically thicker and can handle the screws necessary to support the weight of the system, and you can mount the system closer to the front of the cabinet for easier access when it comes time to change filter cartridges. That’s where I’m going to mount this system. Now that I have a general idea of where I want the filter system, I need to mount the mounting bracket and valve head assembly at the appropriate height. You see, this system requires a minimum of 2 ½ inches below the filter cartridge for proper removal. When you remove it, you twist and pull down. Well, you need some distance below the filter to properly pull it out of the valve head; a minimum of 2 ½ inches. So, to determine the height of the mounting bracket, first I need to measure the distance from the holes on the back of the mounting bracket to the bottom of the filter. I’ve already done that, and that is 11 inches, so now I’m going to add 3 inches to give myself a generous amount of space below the filter cartridge. That means I want to drill these pilot holes at 14 inches from the bottom of the cabinet. Using a 1/8 inch drill bit I’ll simple drill two pilot holes for the screws. Now, when you go to put the screws in your pilot holes, this is where you really need to use your head a little bit. Pay attention to the thickness of the side wall of your cabinet and make sure that you’re using the appropriate length of screw.

Now the mounting bracket simply slides down over the screws and then I’ll hand tighten them the rest of the way with a regular Phillips screwdriver, and you’re mounting bracket is in place. And you can see, because we thought ahead and planned properly, we have plenty of space underneath for the removal and replacement of the cartridge. Now we need to install the water lines from the valve and up to the kitchen faucet. Now, the system comes complete with six feet of 3/8 inch outside diameter polyethylene tubing, which I’m going to need to cut into two lengths. This can be accomplished with either a regular razor knife or much more easily with a tubing cutter. I’ll show you how to do that in a moment. Now, I need to measure two lengths of tubing, so for starters let’s have one from the valve where the water comes in to the inlet side of the system. I want to give myself plenty of length, because I don’t want it to be a tight stretch and yet I don’t want to have a whole bunch of excess tubing down here either. This seems like a good distance for me, and then I’ll simply take the tubing cutter, place the tubing in the V and chop; super easy.

Now, why is a tubing cutter better? Because it produces a perfect cut every time. If you try to do that with a razor knife, you’ll inevitably end up with an angle or with some jagged edges. You can’t have any jagged surface and it needs to be perfectly cut, it can’t be at an angle, it can’t be skewed at all. It’s got to be perfect in order for the quick-connect fittings to work properly. So having a tubing cutter is worth it. So now that I have my length, this is super easy. For starters, installing it into the valve head with the quick-connect fittings is a snap. Literally push the water line in and you’re done. That’s it, it’s in, and if I were to pull on this all day long with all of my strength it would not come out. Now I need to attach it to the valve head where the water comes in. To attach the water line to the incoming valve at the back of my cabinet, I need three more pieces of hardware found in the hardware packet. I need this 3/8 inch compression nut, that’s brass and this 3/8 inch tubing insert made of plastic, and this 3/8 inch plastic ferrel. The process is really very simple. Begin by taking the 3/8 inch brass compression nut with the threads toward the end of the tubing and slide it over the water line. Then take the ferrel with the thin tapered end toward the end of the water line and put it over the tubing, and then lastly, take the plastic insert and press it into the end of the water line. At the valve mechanism, insert the water line, bring the compression thread down and attach it to the valve head. Hand tighten as far as possible and then with a wrench or a plier, tighten it the remainder of the way. Next I’m going to take the second piece of water line and attach it to the outlet side of the system and run it up to the kitchen faucet. First I need to attach it to the quick-connect fitting here on the side of the system.

Again, it’s just that easy. Push it in, it kind of snaps in place, and that’s it. It’s not ever going anywhere, they’re really really slick. Then I’ll attach this end to the connector that we’ve already put on the faucet up underneath the sink. The last connection is really easy because we’ve already installed the faucet quick-connect adaptor. All we need to do is take our water line and insert it into that quick-connect fitting. That’s not going anywhere, and we are done. And there you have it, a complete installation from beginning to end of a GE GXULQ under sink filter system. These systems are easy to install and changing cartridges is super easy as well.

Again, this is the GE GXULQ, and I’m your host Tony the Filter Doctor with our installation series. Thanks for watching. 

See detailed specifications and purchase the GE GXULQ here.